We often make our own garb but many of us are happy supporters of BadAss Garb.
There are also tutorials on the Dagorhir website www.dagorhir.com
WalMart Blue Ozark Camping Foam ($6)
(not egg crate, the flat one) You can pump out 2 or 3 swords per roll, but shields can require 2-5 rolls. Buy lots. 3/8 inch thick
Open Cell Foam
This stuff is in couches, used to pack computers and a million other things. It comes in varying types of density and depending on that density, has uses as spear tips, jav tips, arrow tips.
Often used by vendors. It can be a great foam. I have yet to try it but I believe two inch thick is an accepted thickness for the foam.
REI Blue Camping Foam ($15-$20)
Much more expensive than Wal-Mart brand, but a good deal softer. It is not a good idea to make a whole weapon out of this, but using it on the last layer will help soften the blow, or for part of making stabbing tips. Slightly less than 3/8 inch thick.
Green Camping Mat Army Surplus Store-($15)
One of the densest of foams, this stuff is only good for the first layer of foam. It will hold very strong for a very long time, but has to have softer foam over top of it. Use additional Goop glue to hold this to the core after dap.
EVA Foam- (Varies in price)
Generally needs to be ordered online. You can get it in different densities, lengths, widths and prices. It can be very dense for first layers, or very soft on on outside layers. A plus to this foam is that when you DAP it, the layers hold together extremely well. The downside can often be the price and hassle of ordering sizes online.
Dap Glue (Gel or liquid) ($12)
Don't get the smallest container, you will use a good deal of this. The medium container is fine. I prefer Gel because of less mess.
Super 77 Spray adhesive ($12)
Needed some for making my style of swords, but is preferred glue for making shields. You will need only part of a bottle for swords and get 2 bottles per shield.
One bottle will work for a sword, but it's good to have plenty of this in stock. Also can fix shoes, round of sharp edges. It holds cores to the foam and fill in gaps.
Many golf clubs are graphite, I do not build out of these any more. They are light but also brittle. They break easier than other cores.
Core of choice for most Dagorhir. It is strong, not too heavy and comes in a variety of thicknesses and shapes. Square rods hold foam better, round rods don't hold the foam as well. If it is a long sword (36 in), and you use the smaller round rods, double them. Goop and tape cores together to prevent flex.
I never recommend the use of PVC for a core of anything but a javelin. It breaks easier than graphite. Light and easy to use, pvc may be an ok choice for loaner gear or practice weapons you don't care about. I use pvc cut in half to make oval handles for weapons.
For (blue) cores .524 kitespar. This is basically a hollowed out fiberglass. Makes a lighter sword but sacrifices some of its strength. It can make a proven and long lasting blue sword.
I use a 3/8 or 1/2 inch square cut of plywood from Home Depot for medium shields. It's strong and will last.
(Blue foam 4 layers on sides, 3 front, 1 back) This is my preferred shield. Another option is Superply. You can get a lighter and thinner core without losing strength.
Some people make shields out of only foam and the straps. You can wind the foam in a circle or just multiple layers, or layer 4 sheets of blue foam, plus extra for where you cut out your hand grip. Works better for punch shields over strap.
Dense Open Cell (Minicell)
Some shields are entirely one dense piece of open cell foam. Almost always used for punch shields or bucklers. Round off edges and can use Gorilla glue or goop glue to hold the handle in place.
Both Minicell and Polyethylene can be ordered from: http://www.foamforyou.com/Closed_Cell_Foam.htm
More foam - http://www.foambymail.com/
General Supply Lists
Brushes to apply foam
Sports tape (grip tape)
Duck tape (strong brand)
Cloth for cover/under cover
Leather for shield straps
Razors/Scissors to cut foam
Anywhere from 2-5 rolls of blue foam (depending on size and design)
Wood screws and washers (1/2-5/6 inch)
2 bottles of Super 77 Spray Glue (or so)
Something to cut the shield to size
Sandpaper to smooth edges
Leather Hide (13-15 oz)
Copper Rivets (3/4 is best in my opinion, has the most use)
Rapid Rivets (I use all sizes, but Large to connect armor to armor)
Snap rivets are not as long lasting or strong as copper ones, but I still prefer to use them. They are faster and I like the look. Be sure to use more of them to compensate for the lack of strength. Don't be mistaken, they still work and can hold very well.
Leather Dye (Fiebing's is vastly superior in my opinion. Less coats and better finish)
Wax- Protects your leather and makes it look so much better.
Buckles (These are the cheapest and work very well. Highly suggest the 3/4 inch nickel plated buckles. Bigger ones perhaps if you are making chest armor)
*When buying a hole punch, make sure you buy quality. I went through three cheap ones before buying a good one. It has been worth the money.
*Keep quality, thick, sharp razors handy. Get used to tossing them when they get dull, or switch them to cutting foam. Leather shears can also work, but I prefer blades.
*If you want to get more professional, learn how to add snaps, eyelets, conches, studs.
Tooling Leather by Old Horse (friend of a friend of the Highland Guard)
Good, all around, leather working site